Parnelli Accavitti
What, it seemed, had defined the difference between men's and women's fashion in the last ten years was the definition of the shape as either masculine and boxy, or feminine with curves. Of course before this there were the shoulder-padded '80s that saw women and men sharing the rough burley shape of the "power suit", but those times came to pass with the return of the bell shape to women's fashion. It seems now that the roles have reversed. Increasingly the runways are showing smaller and smaller cuts in men's clothing (and smaller the models themselves). Leading the way is Thom Browne, a designer whose signature suits are hard to miss. First off, their cut is miniature, leaving the wearer little freedom in moving the upper body. Second, they are well known for the amount of ankle they showcase (Mr. Browne advises his customers that "the trousers should be worn high-waisted so that the cuff of the trouser falls above the ankle"). Designers the world over have embraced his move, and many of the "up-and-coming" labels (such as Rag and Bone, or Obedient Sons) are following suit by giving a tighter silhouette to many classic designs. Even the preppy staple Brooks Brothers has turned to Browne to design their new "Black Fleece" line. Featuring the same snug cuts and cuffed pants, they are making the same appeal to consumers looking to modernize from the blocky designs of recent years.
Certainly these looks are not for all men. Those with stocky or muscular builds may find these deigns uncomfortable. However, those leaner men who often felt that clothing engulfed them are flocking to this new design. The key to making it work is in determining the intension of the designer when choosing pieces. Just picking out pants that are too short will only make it seem as if you have not quite learned how not to shrink your clothing yet. Make sure that the leg is tapered all the way through, and that the leg opening is tighter to the leg (Imagine it as this: If you wore your pants low, they should not fit around your shoes). Now, it is important to note two things about trying to attempt this style of dress, even for the smaller men. One, these are not supposed to be a modern pedal pusher. Don't pair extra short jeans with your Birkenstocks. This is meant to give a sense of form to your khakis and suits. Second, no socks. This is a big point, and many men may avoid this style for this reason alone. No, skipping out on the socks won't ruin your shoes, but your shoes will require extra diligence in their upkeep. The reward, however, is a neat and polished look that exemplifies how a contoured fit makes you appear more together (People have said of Mr. Browne's suits that they seem more ostentatious since they are tailored so much that they could fit no one else but yourself). As we head into spring, the perfect time to try out this new look presents itself. Try a pair of slimmer cut khakis that break at the ankle. Even if you don't show them off while standing, the style is noted upon sitting as well. Just remember to keep continuity in the outfit. Smaller, fitted shirts with smaller fitted pants (fit your coats as well). Just remember the two rules: First, make sure that the intention of the clothes is the same as yours; and second, forget the socks.
