Exploring the Trendiest Districts in Melbourne

Embarking on any budding day in Melbourne is never complete without one or even two cups of coffee. In this city, ordering a coffee is not as simple as it sounds. Melbourne, Australia's second-most populous city, possesses a distinct coffee lingo. In this city, an Americano is known as a "long black" and a creamy latte is referred to as a "flat white".

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You won't want to miss your chance at being a part of Melbourne's thriving coffee scene, so start planning your trip today!

I am currently visiting Proud Mary, a highly esteemed café, located in Melbourne's former industrial suburb, Collingwood. Collingwood, in conjunction with the adjacent Fitzroy neighborhood, comprises Melbourne's counterpart to Brooklyn. Iconic streets like Smith, Gertrude, and Brunswick are brimming with unique cafés, specialized designer boutiques, bars that champion art deco aesthetics and serve local artisanal beers, petite sushi places, and stylish hat shops. These neighborhoods offer such a personal, detailed experience that I recall hearing the French term "milieu" used thrice just within a day. I am growing fond of Collingwood.

Named after the famous song by Creedence Clearwater Revival, Proud Mary offers "cuppings". These are sessions where visitors gather around the work section to learn the correct way to savor coffee. It might feel like a scene straight out from the satire TV show Portlandia, more so because the ambiance is amplified by '80s rap music playing in the background. An interesting fact is that Proud Mary is set to open an establishment in the coffee mecca of the U.S — Portland, Oregon.

“We’re not afraid of taking on anyone,” proclaims head barista Jak Ryan.

This morning I’m going for a long black. Ryan prepares a “sweet brew” with a new Ecuadorian bean he says he is “just getting to know.” Joining locals at a communal table as they down their breakfast, or “brekkie” (the most popular appears to be toast smeared with avocado and topped with a poached egg), I dutifully follow Ryan’s coffee advice: Spoon the drink’s frothy top layer toward me three times, sniff deeply, then taste.

For food, I wander backstreets over to Fitzroy, where I come upon a plain brown-brick warehouse that is home to Lune, a bakery that produces what some—including the New York Times—say may be the world’s best croissant. Lines often stretch around the corner. I’m lucky; only four people are ahead of me. As I wait to order, my attention beelines to a glass-walled baking station known as “The Cube.” Inside it, Cam Reid, who sports a mustache and man bun and helps run Lune with his sister, a former aerospace engineer, carefully stacks layered dough. When he emerges to take over DJ honors from the barista, also mustached, I ask him about baking.

URBAN EXPRESSIONS
Art and coffee - two mediums through which Melbourne likes to express its distinction from Sydney. The city's love for art is reflected in the blend of refined museums and quaint art galleries strewn across the metropolis. Strolling through the suburban scenery of Kew, you'll discover the Lyon Housemuseum, a unique fusion of a private dwelling and an art collector’s haven. The main attraction, however, lies in the vibrant display of street art in Melbourne's backstreets - a former hub of notorious activities, now murals with messages. Colorful aerosol "tags", creatively plastered posters, and towering murals bringing to life commonplace elements like walls, entrances, sidewalks, drainpipes, and even rubbish containers, found in lanes like Hosier Lane.

All this street art wonder can be better embraced when explored with the guidance of local connoisseurs. Experience the vibrant street art with Melbourne Street Art Tours. The charismatic Chris Hancock, a street artist who migrated to Melbourne from Perth half a decade ago, will be your guide. Draped in a relaxed all-black ensemble, Chris carries boundless energy through the journey which culminates at his shared private art studio, enjoyed over friendly beers.

As I meander through Melbourne's vibrant streets, my guide, Hancock, points out an array of hidden treasures that I would easily overlook. Amongst the urban scenery, I discover captivating street art masterpieces by a variety of renowned artists. One of the highlights is stumbling upon stencils created by the legendary Banksy, discreetly tucked away in the corners of an alley.

Our group takes a detour to admire Hancock's latest creation in ACDC Lane, aptly named after the iconic Australian hard-rock band. The mural showcases a whimsical "Purple Rain forest theme," paying tribute to the late greats, Prince and David Bowie.

EXPLORING MELBOURNE ON TWO WHEELS

While Sydney may be known for its pristine sandy beaches and picturesque bays, Melbourne, as the first Australian host of the Olympic Games in 1956, offers an equally appealing outdoor experience. With its lower rainfall compared to Sydney and relatively flat terrain, Melbourne proves to be an ideal city for biking enthusiasts.

I embark on a thrilling 25-mile cycling trail that takes me through serene meadows, captivating public art installations, and alongside the enchanting Yarra River. Leaving behind the bustling central business district (CBD) skyline, I find myself immersed in nature's beauty, accompanied only by a handful of joggers and the majestic red gums. These ancient Australian eucalyptus trees have graced this land for centuries, adding to the picturesque scenery.

Gliding along a trail on my rented bicycle, I stumble upon a landscape reminiscent of England's picturesque Cotswolds district. Sheep leisurely nibbling on lush green pastures contrast against the backdrop of the majestic, 19th-century Abbotsford Convent's bell tower. This erstwhile nunnery now serves as a cultural hub, boasting art galleries, unique workspaces, dining options, and providing a space for an array of artistic events, all encapsulated within its Victorian architecture.

On this day, I find myself immersed in an "indigenous language workshop", which is an intriguing segment of the Next Wave Art Festival. This festival highlights Abbotsford Convent as one of its locales. Guiding the participants through this enlightening experience is Mandy Nicholson, an artist who traces her lineage back to the Aboriginal Wurundjeri tribe. She takes us on an educational journey of Melbourne's Aboriginal history through a captivating slide show, before showcasing a walert-walert she handcrafted. This unique cloak, adorned with possum skins, is the first of its kind to be made in over a century.

Nicholson elaborates that the cloak is more than merely a garment. It resembles a "jigsaw puzzle" pieced together with swirling Wurundjeri symbols, each tailored to form a "cultural map" of Melbourne. She proudly proclaims, "We boast the world's most ancient culture, and we're very much alive today."

I continue cycling and soon cross the Yarra, where I come upon Yarra Bend Park—and an example of Australia’s at times freaky wildlife, flying foxes. Long absent from Melbourne, these winged members of the bat family have returned in the past few decades. Nowadays about 6,000 call the city home, with an additional 30,000 showing up in summer. Hanging from red gums in bunches, they look like orange-brown foxes wrapped in black ponchos. And they screech, even when napping, to the consternation of some locals. “They’re quarrelsome, noisy, and smelly,” says conservationist Robert Bender. They also are important pollinators and dispersers of seeds, functions integral to a healthy ecosystem. A 1970s native-garden movement led to the planting of indigenous trees, which replenished a food supply that flying foxes favor. Initially they moved into the cherished Royal Botanic Gardens, and many locals called for their extermination. Instead, the city, experimenting with noise machines, drove them to this less obtrusive spot outside the center. Today these intelligent animals, protected by law, are making a comeback.

WALKING LUNCH IN FOOTSCRAY
For my midday meal I’m on a three-stop tour of Footscray, a suburb that has emerged from years as a crime-prone place many avoided. It’s said more than 35 languages are spoken here, loosely confirmed as I walk a few blocks from the Footscray Market’s fresh produce and packaged noodles—and pass by a Sudanese café, an Ethiopian injera bakery, an Afghan kebab house, Chinese therapy shops, and sidewalk grills cooking Vietnamese nuong (pork).

I start my lunch with crumpets and jam at Rudimentary, a year-old café with garden boxes made from reclaimed railroad ties and an eating area carved out of four shipping containers. “It’s designed to be portable,” says Rudimentary’s 28-year-old founder, Desmond Huynh. “My dream is to move this to the mountains and make a climber’s pad.”

My journey took me next to Little Saigon Market situated in an unpretentious building nearby. Once inside, the bustling athmosphere is quite a spectacle to behold, where vendor's cries are heard promoting tropical fruits and cuts of freshly butchered meats. A particular spot that intrigued me was a five-year-old restaurant named Co Thu Quan. They have expertise in delivering tantalizing Vietnamese street food, which peculiarly includes a variety of hardly found appetizers hailing from Vietnam's central region of Hue. I was in search of a small dish and I zeroed on having banh trang cuon. This delight comprised mini rolls made from rice paper, packed with hard-hitting flavors of beef jerky, fried shallots, sharp mango, and a hint of dried shrimp.

My extravagant midday meal concluded with a short stroll and a visit toKonjo, a charming Ethiopian establishment helmed by Abdul Hussen who is originally from Ethiopia. Hussen undertook an eventful journey from a refugee camp to Melbourne over the course of 13 years. His humble, yet, culturally rich café serves authentic Ethiopian coffee presented through a traditional coffee ritual, along with a accompaniment of flatbread marvelously made using ensete root flour. Tempted by the aroma, I decided on savoring their coffee along with a mouthwatering bowl of ful, a bean stew rich in flavors derived from tomatoes, onions, and special herb-infused homemade kibbe butter.

Adding a touch of warmth, Hussen shared with me, "In here, people blend, they respect each other", indicating towards the diverse community he welcomes at his café. He also shared the fact that his establishment had just hosted a local writers' band the previous day. He ended the conversation with an earnest desire, hoping such unity and acceptance in his surroundings would perpetually remain.

FOOTY TIME
Everyone in Melbourne—and I mean everyone—“barracks,” or roots for, one of Melbourne’s many “footy” teams, as Australian football is known. Visit from late March through early October, and you’ll spot fans flocking to oval fields in city parks or to the historic Melbourne Cricket Ground, which seats 100,000. Footy is Melbourne’s own sport. Played here since 1858, it only spread to the rest of the country, professionally, in 1982.

I’m at the Etihad Stadium in anticipation of watching two local teams play: the undefeated North Melbourne Kangaroos and the St. Kilda Saints. The Saints are something of a doomed Down Under version of the Chicago Cubs. (They’ve managed only one championship in their 143 years.) In a stadium room I find the St. Kilda Social Club, fans with gray hair and matching Saints shirts, clutching beers as they convene in a game-day tradition. The biggest Saints fan may be Georgie Day. She jokes that she has missed only two games since 1962, after she moved here from Edinburgh. “I was having my kids those days,” she explains, then adds, “This really is a family. After my daughter’s husband died in October, the team brought her food for a week. I love this team.” Day has created a Saints museum and even takes memorabilia on the road when the team plays away games.

As I take my seat on the top deck, I can't help but immerse myself in the electric atmosphere of the stadium. Surrounding me, passionate fans proudly display their team scarves while savoring Four'N Twentys, the iconic steak pies that have become synonymous with footy culture. Unlike American pro sports, where every moment is accompanied by blaring PA system noise, here in Melbourne's hippest neighborhoods, the crowd remains respectfully hushed, allowing every thrilling moment of the match to unfold.

The game itself is an irresistible spectacle, a chaotic yet captivating display of athleticism. The players, clad in snug shorts, muscle shirts, and without helmets, skillfully bounce and punch the ball to their teammates. It's not uncommon to see trainers, donning striking pink attire, entering the field during play to relay instructions to their team. Scoring is achieved by punting the ball past the slender goalposts, and even a near-miss earns a point, ensuring that every play counts.

After witnessing the North Melbourne 'Roos secure yet another victory (today against the Saints), the jubilant sounds of their old-fashioned team song fill the air, amplifying the joyous celebration that ensues. I find myself joining in as kids and parents flood the field, engaging in lively games of kicking footy balls back and forth. With laughter and excitement echoing around me, I bob and weave to dodge the balls that crash onto the grass with every energetic punt.

The Alluring View from a Kayak at Sunset
Within the confines of Melbourne's bustling city hub, the Docklands district majestically towers towards the sky with its shimmering glass condos and corporate buildings. My observation point is far from conventional—I'm perched atop a kayak, gently swaying with the tranquil rhythm of the Yarra River in the Victoria Harbour precinct, as the sun sinks beneath the horizon, coloring the sky in hues of pink and purple.

"In this city of four million, it's just you and I occupying this ribbon of water," comments my guide and mentor, Kent Cuthbert, the founder of Kayak Melbourne.

The Yarra was once notorious for its poor water quality due to industrial filth, but with time and dedicated cleanups, it's slowly regaining its former purity.

According to Cuthbert, "The river now counts as one of the purest in any city that I know of. Its cleanliness has even attracted seals again — I once spotted one feasting on an eel under a bridge.”

We take a break to enjoy a delectable fish-and-chips lunch on the calm waters, observing Melburnians engrossed in their fitness routines inside a see-through gym. We then resume our unique tour, slipping beneath the low bridges, observing an incredible fire show put on by a nearby casino, and making our way to two towering structures that flank the Bolte Bridge.

Cuthbert explains, "Yeah, these towers are simply for show. They're constructed tall enough to surpass the Sydney Harbour Bridge.”

Whether factual or fictional, these tales of urban rivalry prove to be intriguing. However, the truth is that Bolte towers fall slightly short of exceeding Sydney’s esteemed landmark. This competition speaks volumes about Melbourne's spirit and the city's relentless endeavor to outdo Sydney.

As we continue paddling, I find myself submerged in thought, concluding that Melbourne need not face any insecurity. It certainly stands its ground, and does so impressively.

Melbourne Stays

The Blackman Hotel: One of five Art Series hotels inspired by Australian artists, the boutique 209-suite Blackman, named for and displaying works by painter Charles Blackman, is near the Royal Botanic Gardens. From $150.

District South Yarra: Travelers who prefer space will like these sleek one-, two-, and three-bedroom apartments with kitchens and sitting areas. From $99.

The Prince Hotel: Minutes from the beaches of Port Phillip Bay, this casual design hotel with an award-winning restaurant is in the vibrant southern neighborhood of St. Kilda. From $115.

Go With Nat Geo: See Melbourne and other parts of Australia on National Geographic Expeditions’ 12-day “Tasmania to the Great Barrier Reef” trip, 12-day “Explore Australia” Journey, and 22-day “Explore Australia and New Zealand” Journey.